Eastern European Exploits: Poland

Expedition: Europe

When most students study abroad in Europe they hit the highlights: London, Rome, Paris. I would love to see the bastions of Western Europe someday, but I was lucky enough to find a trip to my ancestral homelands of Poland and Lithuania and Europe’s last dictatorship – Belarus.

There are 22 students in this group and a week in Lublin kicked off our trip. We are studying the political development of the previously mentioned states after the collapse of the USSR. Poland was the perfect introduction. Here’s a dabble of what I’ve learned. 

The Poles

Despite the eastern geography, Poles consider themselves “western.” They watch the same movies, wear the same clothes, keep the same religions (mostly Catholicism) and share many of the same values as most of the Western world. Most middle aged and young poles speak English including the

Hundreds of Poles gather for the march of the three kings. 

students I met, making getting around simple. Over 80 percent of the population identify as Roman Catholic as evident by the ornate and ancient chapels dotting every other block of Lublin. Despite the religious dominance, Poles pride themselves with their tolerance, being one of the earliest states in Europe to write that into the state laws. In short, Polacks are charming, curious about Americans and can hold their liquor.

The Places

The biggest difference between home and Poland is that Minnesota’s visible history only goes back a couple hundred years. Here, it’s thousands of years. In the center of Lublin’s sprawls is old town, a cobble-stoned blend of renaissance and medieval architecture. Every five feet there’s a new tavern and then across the big brick bridge is a freaking castle. All that’s missing is a dragon. The streets tell the history of countless occupations of Poland. An open space near the castle is the only reminder of the Jewish section of the city that was razed by the Nazis.

The main street of Lublin's old city is lined with shops and taverns leading straight to the castle. 

Their occupation left its mark beyond the old city. On the corner across from our hotel is a curved, four-story, bleak yellow building home to the multinational brigade, a military alliance between Poland, Lithuania and Ukraine. In the 1940s it was the Gestapo secret police headquarters in Lublin. Just a few miles beyond the city is the Majdanek concentration camp, home to the largest execution of Jews in concentration camps time lasting over 12 hours. The locals call it hell, the Nazis called it the Rose Garden. It’s been mostly preserved as a museum, but the reality of what happened there will never, ever leave that place. That ground is cursed.

Poland has a rich history, haunting as it may be. The modernized city fused with ornate buildings and brick roads is bafflingly beautiful. 

The Education

The university doubles as a museum commemorating JPII

During Lublin week were hosted the John Paul II University, home of Pope John Paul II. Many of our lectures were in the room he taught in for 25 years. His legacy is a point of pride for the teachers and students. We learned about Polish history, policy and language from esteemed individuals such as a leader from Poland’s Solidarity movement against the Soviet Union and former under-secretary of state. We learned about national security from a Polish ambassador and even dabbled in the language. Local media thought we'd make a nice spot for the evening news and interviewed my roommate and I (https://lublin.tvp.pl/28511526/studenci-z-minnesoty-na-kul-wspolny-projekt-edukacyjny). A fantastic educational experience and chance to get on Polish TV. 

TLDR: Poland is welcoming, rich with history including a dark Nazi period and has plenty of taverns. Also I studied in Pope JPII’s classroom and got on TV.